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Aconcagua Polish Glacier Route

Aconcagua Polish Glacier Route

Location: Home » Routes » Aconcagua Polish Glacier Route
  • Duration: 20 days.
  • Difficulty: Excellent physical shape and solid technical experience, familiarity with the use of crampons, ice axe, and belay techniques
  • Space Available: 6 climbers
  • Expedition Cost: US $7,990 per person private 6 clients
  • Other Costs: Private Porter: US $2,000 per person, Hotel single supplement: US $750
  • Payment Balance Due: 120 days prior departure

This extremely challenging and technical expedition to Aconcagua (6,959m / 22,831 ft) by way of the Polish Glacier is offered soley to climbers with solid technical experience, very familiar with the use of crampons, ice axe, and belay techniques. Accessed through the Vacas Valley, the route begins with a three-day trek to the Plaza Argentina base camp (4,200m / 13,944 ft). It continues on to Camp 1 (4,900m/ 16,076 ft), and then up a steep slope to Camp 2 (5,850m / 19,192 ft), sheltered in a moraine at the base of the Polish Glacier. At this point we begin the ascent of the glacier, the condition of the ice determining the climbing line chosen by the guide. The two main routes are the classic Piedra Bandera line, which makes a zigzag ascent to the summit, and the direct Polish glacier line—the steepest and most demanding.  After the emotion of reaching the summit of the western hemisphere’s highest peak and taking the classic group photo beside the mountain’s emblematic white cross, we’ll descend by way of the Normal route, through the Plaza de Mulas base camp and down the Horcones Valley.

Aconcagua Polish Glacier Route with Porters Map

Route Itinerary

Day 1  Picked up Plumerillos airport at Mendoza and transferred to Hotel to meet the guides, gear check and have a power point expedition presentation. Later we go have a great Argentinean asado. Hotel

Day 2.  Transfer to Aconcagua Provincial Park permit office, to obtain the respective climbing permits, a mandatory personal procedure, and then head west to the village of Penitentes, situated at the foot of the valleys that access the mountain. Lodging at Hotel Penitentes

Day 3.   The Aconcagua Express vehicles transport us to the area called Punta de Vacas where we begin the first day’s trek towards the foot of Aconcagua through Vacas valley. This is a beautiful less traveled route with greener landscapes than the normal route. After 4 to 5 hours of hiking we reach our first camp called Pampa de Leña situated at an elevation of 2,800m (9,186 ft). Here we eat a delicious barbecue along with the muleteers while the animals graze. Tent

Day 4.  Continuing along the same valley for 6 to 7 hours, we reach Casa de Piedra camp situated at an elevation of 3,200m (10,498 ft). From camp up through the Relinchos pass we can clearly see the Polacos glacier on Aconcagua. This is the route we will take the next day. Tent

Day 5. We climb up the steep and marvelous Relinchos valley to our base camp called Plaza Argentina situated at 4,200m (13,779 ft). This is a long 8-hour day where we climb 1,000 vertical meters to reach Plaza Argentina. Our chef awaits us with hot drinks and a big dinner. Tent

Day 6.  Rest day at Plaza Argentina base camp. It is necessary to keep hydrated and rest in order to adapt well to the altitude before continuing on to the high camps and before summit day. Tent

Day 7. Rest and hike around Plaza Argentina base camp. Tent

Day 8.  We carry part of the equipment up to high camp 1 and return to Plaza Argentina base camp. The trail leaves camp towards an old moraine until we reach camp 1 at an elevation of 4,822m (15,820 ft). This trek is considered light in terms of weight to continue with an optimal adaptation to the altitude. This is the basic plan of successive stages: climbing up to high elevations and returning to lower ones, a key factor for safety and acclimatization. If this ascent plan is done slowly it increases the possibilities of success in reaching the summit in a comfortable and safe manner. Plaza Argentina camp. Tent

Day 9.  We climb to camp 1 to sleep at that elevation. The surroundings are truly magnificent in the heart of the Central Andes. Tent

Day 10.  We continue to camp 2 situated at the foot of Polacos glacier at an elevation of 5,760m (18,897 ft). This ascent is incredibly beautiful since we can see the glacier in its full magnitude and several peaks that surround Aconcagua. We return to Plaza Argentina base camp to rest and recover energy. Tent

Day 11.  Rest at Plaza Argentina base camp. Tent

Day 12.  Climb to camp 1. Tent

Day 13.  Climb to camp 2. Tent

Day 14.    Traverse crossing from camp 2 to the foot of Polacos glacier towards Piedras Blancas camp at 6,030m (19,783 ft). The trail is clear and easy to see from camp. This is the point at which the Polacos Traverse route and the normal route meet. It is also the camp where those trekking the Guanacos route arrive. Tent

Day 15.   We attempt summit from Piedras Blancas returning to the Berlin high camp. Tent

Day 16. Extra day allowing for weather conditions in Berlin high camp. Tent

Day 17.  Second extra day allowing for weather conditions in Berlin high camp. Tent

Day 18.   Descent on normal route towards our Plaza de Mulas base camp. Tent

Day 19.   From Plaza de Mulas we have mules to help carry out our gear, allowing for a “light” trek through Playa Ancha and Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes in a 6 to 7 hour hike. At the Park Rangers station transport awaits us to take us to Hotel Mendoza to reach the comfort of this beautiful Argentinean city and meet later for our group dinner at a super local restaurant with all the guides and assistants. Hotel NH Cordillera or Park Hyatt

Services

Services included

  • Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
  • Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-2.
  • Porter for group gear (tents) during the entire expedition.
  • Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with a maximum of 25 kg. per person.
  • High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Marmot tents, stoves and fuel.
  • Private tent until base camp.
  • Satellite phone during the entire expedition on a per minute payment basis.
  • VHF 2 mt and BLU HF radio communication equipment.
  • All meals during the expedition.
  • Permanently available hot drinks and biscuits at base camp tent.
  • Full dining room set up at base camp, with tables, chairs, etc.
  • Mendoza two hotel nights in double occupancy with breakfast, at Hyatt Park Plaza Hotel or equivalent.
  • One hotel night in Penitentes, double occupancy with half pension.
  • Private transportation, including airport pick-up.
  • Assistance at Mendoza airport.
  • All local organization and supervision by Aconcagua Express Expeditions & KL Expeditions Staff.
  • The Aconcagua, “Summit of America” book, by Mauricio Fernandez.

Services not included

  • Mandatory Rescue Insurance.
  • Aconcagua climbing permit fee $850 – $1000, depending on climbing season.
  • All personal climbing equipment and gear.
  • Porter for personal gear, except for those who have purchased this service.
  • Any costs involved in an early or late departure.
  • Meals & drinks in Mendoza.
  • Airport drop-off.
  • Cancellation, accident, and rescue insurance.
  • Cash for extra expenses.
  • Gratuities.
  • Any other service not mentioned above.

Important

  • All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in the weather, individuals’ acclimatization rates, and the guide’s criteria.
  • A Private Porter can carry 20kg maximum.
  • Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 persons.

Climber Experiences

I would firstly like to thank you all for putting together such a great expedition. I would like to make particularly comment on the efforts of our guide Cristina who did such a great job.
The cooks at both base camps also deserve mention, as the food they prepared was fantastic. Having said that the cooked meals provided at altitude were perfect for the conditions. The hotel at Penitentes was also a little run down, but again there did not seem to be many other options.
This criticisms do not even rate as concerns. The service provided by your company was fantastic and I would not hesitate to recommend it to others.

Stephen Hynd
Australia

Gabriel and Mariana were really fantastic and helpful, especially since I struggled with acclimatization. Suzanne (at base camp) was also really great. When I descended early she looked after me to ensure that all of my logistics for leaving the park were coordinated. The trip was overall well organized, very informative, very realistic expectations and a great experience – unfortunately, my body did not hold up as well as usual, but I do not feel that I (or the company) could have done anything differently to improve my chances. A great climbing team!

Nancy Henning
USA

Hello, Magaly!
Was good talking to you on the phone today. We are very happy with the trip, a bit tired and feel very lucky with the weather and our guide, Gabriel, both being important factors that allowed us to summit.

Olga Kotova
Latvia

Aconcagua Express & KL Adventure was truly a wonderful experience. From the pre- trip client care to the world class guide and staff, fabulous base camp cuisine, traveling safely and ethically, superior route experience and better pricing than most other outfits. Truly a fantastic trip that I have no reservations in recommending to Americans or anyone else interested in a climb.

Eric Hornbeck
USA

Overall environment of the expedition was nice, relaxed and very good.
Guides were able proactively to solve all unexpected issues during the trip, and responded to the requests in fast and professional way.

Sarma Jeca
Sweden

Dear Joaquin,
Thank you for everything and making our trip to Aconcagua 100% successful! The entire team reached the summit via the False Polish route the 12th of February. Your services and staff helped make the expedition a better experience for our team. Carolina and Marcelo were great!

Bill Crouse Lead Guide Adventure Consultants
New Zealand

Let me just say thank you for how you were with my wife while I was on the mountain. This was a very important to me and I am very pleased that you were so helpful with letting my wife know what was going on.
Leo was a fantastic guide with great energy, and I could not ask for a better companion for the duration of the trip!! All in all, the trip was fantastic and well organized!!
Anyhow, thanks again for all your hospitality and helpfullness…you guys should be proud of your business!

Erhard Zeising
USA

The two guides were excellent in every possible respect. Everything was well prepared and well organized. Overall I am very much impressed by the dignity, the professionalism and the good manners of the guides. Organization and set up of the expedition was at a very high level.

I will certainly recommend your agency to other fellow climber how will want to try the same experience. Thank you

Sotris Skevis
Greece

Over the last couple years I had the opportunity to lead many individual and groups to Aconcagua, Patagonia, central Cordillera and Lake District of Chile. I could not have provided the exceptional service my clients have grown accustom to without the help of KL Adventure & Aconcagua Express. Joaquin Oyarzun and his team were perfectly dedicated to the comfort, safety and enjoyment of my clients. It is this type of dedication to service that I search out when I lead trips. It is what guarantees a successful trip. Nature will deliver what it will. Outstanding infrastructure provides the comforts and support that keeps clients coming back.

Jean Pavillard
UIAGM / IFMGA Internationally Certified Mountain Guide World Wide Adventures
Switzerland

Lieber Joaquin,
Als erstes möchte ich mich bei Dir für Deine Leistungen bei der Expedition zum Aconcagua bedanken. Bergführer Abi Kirschner hat sich sehr lobend über Deine Arbeit geäußert. Auch Pierre Kintgen war mit Bergführer und KL Adventure sehr, sehr zufrieden. Ich denke, das wird unseren gemeinsamen Produkten sehr gut tun – denn die Teilnehmer tragen Ihre Zufriedenheit weiter und das ist die beste Werbung für uns alle. Ich danke Dir und Deinem Team für die hervorragende Arbeit und Bemühungen! Herzliche Grüße aus München.

Michael Roepke
DAV-Summit Club Manager, Munchen
Germany

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