- Duration: 20 days.
- Difficulty: Excellent Physical Shape
- Space Available / Trip: 6 climbers
- Expedition Cost: US $5,300 per person
- Other Costs: Private Porter: US $2,000 per person, Hotel single supplement: US $750, Reservation cost: US $900
- Payment Balance Due: 120 days prior departure
The Ameghino & Upper Guanacos route provides a pristine alternative to the heavily traveled Normal route by way of the Horcones Valley, and offers exceptionally fine views of nearby peaks and glaciers. It follows the Vacas Valley in three days of superb trekking to the Plaza Argentina base camp (4,200m /13,944 ft). After reaching High Camp 1 we pass through the Ameghino saddle–a very easy and beautiful traverse–to High Camp 2 (High Camp 3 of the old Guanacos route), and on to High Camp 3 (Piedras Blancas), from where the summit bid is made.
This is a safe, comfortable, and stunningly beautiful ascent, offering the highest rate of success of all the Aconcagua routes. In addition, climbers benefit from the medical, porter, and daily mule service offered by the Plaza Argentina base camp.
The effectiveness of our climbing plan has been proved through decades of experience, and is the key to success. An important element of this plan involves our ‘double carry’ strategy between camps, allowing climbers to achieve an optimal acclimatization. Together with the slow steady pace of our guide and the proper use of the rest step, the summit gets closer and closer.
Please look at our training program. By following this program, you will be assured of arriving ready to climb the Aconcagua, thus ensuring a safe, memorable, enjoyable, and above all successful ascent, whether this be a unique mountaineering goal or part of your quest for the Seven Summits.
2020/21 Trip Dates
November
- AEE1-01 – Sun. Nov. 29 – Fri Dec. 20, 2020
December
- AEE1-02 – Fri. Dec. 4 – Wed. Dec. 23, 2020
- AEE1-03 – Sat. Dec. 12 – Dec 31, 2020
- AEE1-04 – Sun. Dec. 20, 2020 – Jan Fri 8, 2021
- AEE1-05 – Sat. Dec. 27 2020 – Jan Fri 15, 2021
January
- AEE1-06 – Sun Jan. 3 – Jan. 22, 2021
- AEE1-07 – Sat. Jan. 10 – Fri 29, 2021
Route Itinerary
Day 1 Mendoza. You will be picked up at Plumerillos Airport in Mendoza and transferred to our Hotel. After meeting the guides and other members of the group, we’ll make an equipment and gear check, and have a power point presentation on the expedition.
Hotel / Elevation 761 m (2,497 ft)
Day 2 Mendoza – Penitentes. Before leaving Mendoza, we’ll visit the Aconcagua Provincial Park’s permit office to obtain our mandatory, individual climbing permits. Then we’ll drive towards the Park, stopping for lunch in Uspallata. We’ll continue our journey west to the village of Penitentes, situated at the entrance to the Vacas Valley, which gives access to our route. Overnight in Penitentes.
Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 2 1/4 hours / Hotel Penitentes / Elevation Min 761 m (2,497 ft) – Max 2,580m – 8,464 ft
Day 3 Penitentes – Pampa de Leña. The Aconcagua Express vehicles transfer us to the area known as Punta de Vacas, site of an important Argentinean Army post, beside the Vacas River. Here we begin our trek towards the base of Aconcagua through the Vacas Valley, a greener and less busy trail than the Normal route and wonderfully scenic. After four to five hours we reach our first camp at Pampa de Leña, a picturesque spot surrounded by rocky walls (2,800m / 9,330ft). Here we’ll join our arrieros (mule drivers) for a delicious barbecue.
Trekking Time – 4-5 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 2,580m (8,464 ft) – Max 2,800m (9,186 ft)
Day 4 Pampa de Leña – Casa de Piedra. We continue trekking up the Vacas Valley for six to seven hours, reaching Casa de Piedra camp, a green strip of land on the eastern side of the huge Vacas Valley, situated at 3,200m (10,665 ft). We’ll get an excellent view here through the Relinchos Pass toward the Polacos Glacier,
Trekking Time – 6-7 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 2,800m (9,186 ft) – Max 3,200m (10,665 ft)
Day 5 Casa de Piedra – Plaza Argentina. Leaving the Vacas Valley behind us, we begin to climb up the steep, narrow and marvelously scenic Relinchos Valley to our base camp at Plaza Argentina, situated at 4,200m (14,000 ft). This is a demanding seven-hour day where we climb 1,000 vertical meters (3,280 ft) and cross the Relincho creek, a stream which can carry a lot of water in the summer and must be forded with care. Along the last stretch of this track we get a magnificent view of Aconcagua and its north-eastern neighbour, Mt. Ameguino (5,900m / 10,356 ft). Our chef awaits us with hot drinks and a delicious dinner. At Plaza Argentina Park Rangers are present and medical services are available.
Trekking Time – 7 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 3,200m (10,665 ft) – Max 4,200m (14,000 ft)
Day 6 Plaza Argentina base camp. Today is a rest day, essential for an optimal acclimatization. We’ll rest in camp and drink plenty of liquids, allowing our bodies to adapt well to the altitude in readiness for the high camps and summit day.
Tent / Elevation – 4,200m (14,000 ft)
Day 7 Plaza Argentina – High Camp I – Plaza Argentina. Without the help of our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules, we’ll make our first day of portage, carrying light loads of personal and common gear up to what will be our high Camp I, situated at 4,900m (16,076 ft). We’ll then return to Plaza Argentina. It is essential to take advantage of the comfort of our base camp at this point so as to achieve a slow, safe, and optimal acclimatization.
Trekking Time – 4 to 6 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,200m (14,000 ft) – Max 4,900m (16,076 ft)
Day 8 Plaza Argentina base camp. Today is a rest day in base camp. We’ll take it easy around camp and drink plenty of liquids.
Tent / Elevation – 4,200m (14,000 ft)
Day 9 Plaza Argentina base camp – High Camp I. Today we climb with our remaining gear for four to six hours, gaining 700 meters (2,296 ft), to reach high Camp I. From this point we’ll leave base camp behind us and begin our ascent to the summit. All unnecessary equipment will be left at Plaza Argentina to be carried out by the mules.
Trekking Time – 4 to 6 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,200m (14,000 ft) – Max 4,900m (16,076 ft)
Day 10 High Camp I – High Camp II – High Camp I. Today we begin our second day of portage, taking loads to High Camp II (5,500m / 18,000 ft). We’ll make the connection with the Upper Guanacos route by going through the Ameghino pass, making a gentle traverse which will take us to Camp 3 of the Guanacos route. In the afternoon we return to High Camp 1.
Trekking Time – 5 hours/ Tent / Elevation – Min 4,900m (16,076 ft) – Max 5,500m (18,044 ft)
Day 11 High Camp 1 – High Camp II. Today we climb with the rest of our gear to establish High Camp II (Guanacos route Camp III).
Trekking Time – 3 to 4 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,900m (16,076 ft) – Max 5,500m (18,044 ft)
Day 12 High Camp II. Today is a rest and acclimatization day. We have observed that taking this day to rest has brought excellent results, ensuring that climbers are much stronger higher up on the mountain and prepared for summit day.
Tent / Elevation – 5,500m (18,044 ft)
Day 13 High Camp II – Piedras Blancas – High Camp II. We make a relatively light portage/acclimatization hike to our next high camp, Piedras Blancas, also known as Colera, or Camp IV, located at 6,000m (19,600 ft). We return to Camp II for the night.
Trekking Time – 3 to 5 hours/ Tent / Elevation – Min 5,500m (18,044 ft) – Max 6,060m (19,676 ft)
Day 14 High Camp II. We take a rest day here in the Piedras Blancas camp to prepare ourselves for the summit push.
Tent / Elevation – 5,500m (18,044 ft)
Day 15 High Camp II – Piedras Blancas. We climb from High Camp II, at 5,500m (18,044 ft) to Piedras Blancas at 6,000m (19,600 ft). From Piedras Blancas we can reach the summit in one day.
Trekking Time – 4 hours/ Tent/ Elevation – Min 5,500m (18,044 ft) – 6,060m (19,676 ft)
Days 16, 17 & 18 Piedras Blancas – Summit. From Piedras Blancas we are now ready to attempt the summit. We wait for the best climatic conditions for our final ascent. Reaching the top, we’ll admire the magnificent views and takes the photos which will record this momentous achievement. We’ll return, weary, to Piedras Blancas.
Trekking Time – 12 to 14 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 6,060m (19,676 ft) – Max 6,962m (22,835 ft)
Day 19 Piedras Blancas – Plaza de Mulas. We come down from Piedras Blancas following the normal route to the Plaza de Mulas Camp, located at 4,200m (13,779 ft), where our Aconcagua Express chef awaits us with a delicious dinner that will restore our energy. This base camp has showers, satellite telephone, and an exquisite menu especially prepared for our expedition.
Trekking Time – 4 to 5 hours / Tent / Elevation – Min 4,300m (14,107 ft) – Max 6,060m (19,676 ft)
Day 20 Plaza de Mulas – Mendoza. From Plaza de Mulas, our arrieros (mule drivers) and the mules will help us carry out our gear and equipment. Today is a fairly gentle six to seven- hour hike through Playa Ancha and down the Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes. At the Park Ranger’s Station, our vehicles will be waiting to take us back to Mendoza. Following a good night’s rest, the Aconcagua Ameghino & UPPER Guanacos Route with Porters Expedition comes to an end! Other expedition members may choose to remain in Mendoza to visit this beautiful city and enjoy superb Argentinean cuisine.
Transfer distance 190 km – 118 miles / Transfer time 2 1/4 hours / Hotel / Elevation – Min 761 m (2,497 ft) – Max 4,300m (14,107 ft)
Services
Services included
- Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
- Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-3.
- All local organization & supervision by AE Expeditions Staff.
- Porter for community gear (tents, stove, gas) during the entire expedition.
- Mules for individual and community gear to base camp and return.
- High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware & Marmot tents, stoves and fuel.
- Private tent until base camp.
- Full dining room set up at base camp, with tables, chairs, etc.
- All meals during the expedition.
- Permanently available hot drinks and biscuits at base camp tent.
- Two hotel nights in Mendoza, double occupancy with breakfast, at Park Hyatt, Sheraton or Diplomat hotel.
- One hotel accommodation in Penitentes, double occupancy with half pension.
- Private transportation, including airport pick-up.
- Assistance at Mendoza airport.
- Satellite phone during the entire expedition on a per minute payment basis use.
- VHF 2 mt radio communication equipment.
- The Aconcagua, “Summit of America” book, by Mauricio Fernandez.
- The Aconcagua topographic map
Services not included
- All personal climbing equipment and gear.
- Aconcagua climbing permit fee $850 – $1000, depending on climbing season
- Single room supplement at hotels Mendoza & Penitentes.
- Meals in Mendoza.
- Porter for personal gear.
- Drinks (soda, beer, or wine) in
- Guides and mountain staff tips.
- Cancellation, accident, and rescue insurance.
- Cash for extra expenses.
- Airport drop-off.
- Any costs involved in an early or late departure.
- Any other service not mentioned above.
Important
- All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in the weather, individual’s acclimatization rates and the guide’s criteria.
- A Private Porter can carry 20kg maxi.
- Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 persons.
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