Aconcagua Polish Glacier Route with Porters
This technical glacial route is of a different nature than any of the above routes. The climb follows the Polish traverse to Camp 2 at the base of the Polish Glacier. Summit day ascends the glacier itself to join the summit ridge then descend by the normal route. The climbs difficulty can vary season to season depending on the snow conditions but will most likely tackle snow and ice from 30 to 60 degrees in steepness. This route has a much more strenuous and committing summit day than any of the other routes. We recommend the direct only to climbers with commensurate skills and experience in these kinds of alpine terrain. A great experience for those ready for the challenge.
Day by day itinerary
Day 1 Picked up Plumerillos airport at Mendoza and transferred to Hotel to meet the guides, gear check and have a power point expedition presentation. Later we go have a great Argentinean asado. Hotel
Day 2 Transfer to Aconcagua Provincial Park permit office, to obtain the respective climbing permits, a mandatory personal procedure, and then head west to the village of Penitentes, situated at the foot of the valleys that access the mountain. Lodging at Hotel Penitentes.
Day 3 The Aconcagua Express vehicles transport us to the area called Punta de Vacas where we begin the first day's trek towards the foot of Aconcagua through Vacas valley. This is a beautiful less traveled route with greener landscapes than the normal route. After 4 to 5 hours of hiking we reach our first camp called Pampa de Leña situated at an elevation of 2,800m. Here we eat a delicious barbecue along with the muleteers while the animals graze. Tent.
Day 4 Continuing along the same valley for 6 to 7 hours, we reach Casa de Piedra camp situated at an elevation of 3,200m. From camp up through the Relinchos pass we can clearly see the Polacos glacier on Aconcagua. This is the route we will take the next day. Tent.
Day 5 We climb up the steep and marvelous Relinchos valley to our base camp called Plaza Argentina situated at 4,200m. This is a long 8-hour day where we climb 1,000 vertical meters to reach Plaza Argentina. Our chef awaits us with hot drinks and a big dinner. Tent.
Day 6 Rest day at Plaza Argentina base camp. It is necessary to keep hydrated and rest in order to adapt well to the altitude before continuing on to the high camps and before summit day. Tent.
Day 7 Rest and hike around Plaza Argentina base camp. Tent.
Day 8 We carry part of the equipment up to high camp 1 and return to Plaza Argentina base camp. The trail leaves camp towards an old moraine until we reach camp 1 at an elevation of 4,822m. This trek is considered light in terms of weight to continue with an optimal adaptation to the altitude. This is the basic plan of successive stages: climbing up to high elevations and returning to lower ones, a key factor for safety and acclimatization. If this ascent plan is done slowly it increases the possibilities of success in reaching the summit in a comfortable and safe manner. Plaza Argentina camp. Tent
Day 9 We climb to camp 1 to sleep at that elevation. The surroundings are truly magnificent in the heart of the Central Andes. Tent.
Day 10 We continue to camp 2 situated at the foot of Polacos glacier at an elevation of 5,760m. This ascent is incredibly beautiful since we can see the glacier in its full magnitude and several peaks that surround Aconcagua. We return to Plaza Argentina base camp to rest and recover energy. Tent.
Day 11 Rest at Plaza Argentina base camp. Tent.
Day 12 Climb to camp 1. Tent.
Day 13 Climb to camp 2. Tent.
Day 14 Traverse crossing from camp 2 to the foot of Polacos glacier towards Piedras Blancas camp at 6,030m. The trail is clear and easy to see from camp. This is the point at which the Polacos Traverse route and the normal route meet. It is also the camp where those trekking the Guanacos route arrive. Tent.
Day 15 We attempt summit from Piedras Blancas returning to the Berlin high camp. Tent.
Day 16 Extra day allowing for weather conditions in Berlin high camp. Tent.
Day 17 Second extra day allowing for weather conditions in Berlin high camp. Tent.
Day 18 Descent on normal route towards our Plaza de Mulas base camp. Tent.
Day 19 From Plaza de Mulas we have mules to help carry out our gear, allowing for a "light" trek through Playa Ancha and Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes in a 6 to 7 hour hike. At the Park Rangers station transport awaits us to take us to Hotel Mendoza to reach the comfort of this beautiful Argentinean city and meet later for our group dinner at a super local restaurant with all the guides and assistants. Hotel NH Cordillera or Park Hyatt.
✓ Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
✓ Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-3.
✓ Porter for group gear (tents) during the entire expedition.
✓ Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with a maximum of 25 kg. per person.
✓ High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Marmot tents, insolate mattresses, stoves and fuel.
✓ Satellite phone during the entire expedition on a per minute payment basis.
✓ VHF 2 mt and BLU HF radio communication equipment.
✓ All meals during the expedition.
✓ Permanently available hot drinks and biscuits at base camp tent.
✓ Full dining room set up at base camp, with tables, chairs, etc.
✓ Mendoza two hotel nights in double occupancy with breakfast, at Hyatt Park Plaza Hotel or equivalent.
✓ One hotel night in Penitentes, double occupancy with half pension.
✓ Private transportation, including airport pick-up.
✓ Assistance at Mendoza airport.
✓ All local organization and supervision by Aconcagua Express Expeditions & KL Expeditions Staff.
✓ The Aconcagua, "Summit of America" book, by Mauricio Fernandez.
Services Not Included
Services not included
✘ Aconcagua climbing permit fee.
✘ All personal climbing equipment and gear.
✘ Porter for personal gear, except for those who have purchased this service.
✘ Any costs involved in an early or late departure.
✘ Meals & drinks in Mendoza.
✘ Airport drop-off.
✘ Cancellation, accident, and rescue insurance.
✘ Cash for extra expenses.
✘ Any other service not mentioned above.
☝All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in the weather, individuals' acclimatization rates, and the guide's criteria.
☝ A Private Porter, to be shared between two expedition members carrying 10kg each, is available upon request at an additional cost.
☝ Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 persons.
- Duration: 20 days
- Difficulty: Excellent phiscal shape
Dec 18, 11 - Jan 6, 2012
Jan 08 - Jan 27, 2012
Jan 29 - Feb 17, 2012
Feb 05 - Feb 24, 2012
Mar 04 - Mar 23, 2012
Nov 11 - Nov 30, 2012
- Expedition cost:
- Single room suplement:US $1,000
- Reservation cost:US $700
- Balance payment date: 75 days prior departure
- Space available: 6 private